With over 160,000 restuarants to choose form in Tokyo, it’s extremely difficult to decide on just one. Pouring through recommendations online and in print is just overwhelming. It seems that one can’t really go wrong with just about anywhere. So after much debate I decided on Sushi Kenzan in the ANA Intercontinental Hotel. Not much has been said or written about Sushi Kenzan – either because it does not warrant it or it is an unsung hero. Either way, it was time to find out.
Easy enough to locate on the 3rd floor of this vast hotel, the restaurant is an unassuming, unpretentious simple setup with a few tables and a sushi bar that seats 12 people. I had reserved ahead of time and was sat at the bar. The menu presented a couple of set menus and a la carte sushi as well – I settled for the Omakase menu which essentially leaves it to the chef. A beautiful sashimi starter with fresh scallop, mackerel and bonito was served and the freshness was evident (a good sign). This was followed by Grilled Spanish Mackerel which was pleasingly flavoured however it was overgrilled.
Next came the nigiri. Each prepared and presented individually by Chef Kawakami. A 9 piece selection of Tai (red snapper), Kohada (Japanese shad), Maguro (tuna), Akagai (clam), Uni (sea urchin), Ikura (salmon roe), Toro (fatty tuna), Ebi (shrimp) and Anago (salt water eel). All the fish was fresh and the rice subtely seasoned with vinegar. Again, it was hard to fault the nigiri as it was all fresh and cut perfectly.
After a refreshing simple dessert of sweet melon. I was left confused as to how I would rate Sushi Kenzan. It certainly is not the unsung hero I was hoping for, but in reality it’s not unbearable either, but with 160,000 restuarants to try in Tokyo, and with some heavy weight sushi masters out there cutting and serving amazing fish, I am sure that for the price there is much better out there.
ANA Intercontinental Tokyo
1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
+81 3 3588 0032